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Written by Rian Greeff
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Tuesday, 13 July 2010 |
 AS surfers we take so much for granted it’s actually quite scary. We complain when the waves are anything less than perfect, not even noticing the reforms on the midbreak because we are too focused on the set that never arrives.
Every now and then we just need to pause and consider for a moment all that we have and should be grateful for.
So recently Dyl and I went surfing at Rocky Reefs, and amongst the isolated conditions we were given the opportunity to realize just how blessed we are. We scored some excellent waves with nothing but birds and monkeys around. After the surf we returned to the car only to find the window smashed (even though the doors were unlocked) and all our stuff stolen. What a bummer. We surveyed the damage and pretty much everything was gone. But we were stoked to see the thieves had left the flask of coffee and some small change strewn on the ground.
We were definitely bummed by the fact that all our stuff was stolen, but then we had to ask: Can one put a price on an incredible surf session? I mean, nobody likes to have their stuff stolen, but if you were to be in a situation where you were unable to surf due to illness, injury or whatever, how much would you be willing to give to have a single surf, even if the waves were terrible?
Some things just cannot be bought. So thank-you thieves for providing us an occasion to be grateful and making us realize what is really important. We picked up the scattered change; it was enough for some slap-chips from Strandloper, made a chow and then went surfing again; stoked!
Clothes, bag and shoes: R3000. Cell phones: R2000. Cash and wallets: R300. Un-crowded barrels followed by a cup of hot coffee: Priceless! Take that you foolish thieves! You can steal our possessions but you cannot steal our stoke! I refuse to let you win, which is why next week I’ll be back there again. This time I’ll leave my windows wide open though.
Lord, I pray that you bless all people who have been reduced to thievery and crime; show us the better way. And also Lord, thank you for giving us the opportunity to release our possessions to some poor soul who clearly needs it more than we do – although it would be nice if they ask permission first.
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View Blogs by Fever columnists Rian and John by clicking the links under the blogs menu - We will still feature Malcolm's Perfect Wave and the Pit Pilots blog in the future...
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