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Written by Rian Greeff
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Friday, 16 July 2010 |
 MY mind has just become a ductile and runnier version of its previous self; it is officially blown-away.
I just saw a guy get towed into, what I would modestly call 50 foot chopes. The biggest, meanest, most disgusting waves I have ever seen.
These waves are straight from the pits of hell. When that barrel throws, every fiber of your being doesn’t just scream, but squeals like a little girl: “Get out of here now! This is not a good place to be!” That barrel can be described in one word; Evil! Or maybe two: Pure Evil!
I would go so far as to use three but two four lettered words seem enough – you get the point. It is the most extreme thing I have ever witnessed; I honestly don’t think that there can be anything on this planet that can even remotely compare to the intensity of surfing that wave.
After his near-death-experience from riding and finally being mauled on the reef by the beast rising up from the sea, professional nut-case, Strider Wasilewski had the following to say (slow, soft speech, interrupted with frequent sighs and far off stares): “All my cuts just opened up and went from white to red, my whole body just started bleeding and I just stood there with my board and bled and just tripped-out. And meanwhile everybody outside, like, was trying to figure out what they were going to tell my wife because they all thought I had died.
“Well, fortunately I got to tell her myself: I’m happy to be alive.
“And pushing it that far, is… pretty f’ing emotional. And, er… you know, who knows man, it might happen again… and I’ll be there. Because, basically surfing has put me on the map, it’s given me everything I’ve got in my life, from my houses to my cars. And my path has been dictated by mother nature and the ocean, so I’m gonna stick with her forever and basically it’s given me life so if it takes me out it takes me out…. That’s it… that’s it…”
Well, bru, I’ll leave it at that. But having seen that wave and listened to what he has to say, I am not convinced at all. I have decided; that’s it, that’s it, I’m buying a boogie board and moving to Jo’burg to pursue a career in advertising. “Drink milk with added vitamins from all natural sources: Drink Clovestle. It’s good for you.”
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